Interlux Antifouling Fiberglass Paint

Interlux Yacht Finishes / Nautical Paint YBA062Q TRILUX 33 RED – QUARTS TRILUX 33

interlux antifouling – click on the image below for more information.

interlux antifouling

Available in 5 bright clean colors including White
Ideal for use on aluminum
Excellent for use on fiberglass, wood, and steel
Biolux^® blocks slime
2 biocides working together increase antifouling
Use with thinner 333sold separately

 

Interlux Yacht Finishes / Nautical Paint YBA062Q TRILUX 33 RED – QUARTS TRILUX 33

Click on the button for more interlux antifouling information and reviews.

 

 

 

 

If you own a boat of any sort you will fully understand the importance of looking after it.  Hence, I am not going to explain the importance to your maintenance.  Here, I would like to give you a chance to read a complete review of what I believe to be one of the best products on the market.

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Racing Bronze Y999G Racing Bronze

If you have a racing boat then this is definitely the product for you!  Let me start with some of the major advantages which I found with this product:

1                    It is very effective against barnacles.

2                    It is easy to apply.

3                    It is compatible with other antifouling paints and products.

4                    It is long lasting.

5                    It can be wet sanded to get a smoother surface.

6                    It is really easy to clean and maintain.

Now, you may think that all other products on the market can do this, and yes, to some degree a lot of them can.  But this is a product which does all of these things and does them WELL.  It is also spectacularly long lasting, with a little bit of maintenance you will find that this can last you a good five years – you certainly can’t complain about that!

So now I guess you want the practical information as well….

Here goes:

Application:  Roller, brush or spray (conventional or airless) – which ever your preference they will all produce effect and impressive results.

Type of surface you can use this on: Bare wood or fiberglass OR painted wood or fiberglass.

Preparation:  This is fully detailed in the Interlux instructions and seems pointless to reproduce here.  Yes, preparation is required, but it is highly manageable, and the instructions are very comprehensive and cover all the different surfaces and their current conditions.

Number of coats:  Usually 2, but 3 is essential for bare wood.

There is one word of warning: Do NOT use on aluminium boats!

I have found that this Interlux product is available for a range of prices, but the best prices seem to be on Amazon.  It is actually shipped by an independent, but I have used them and they are great.  You can go direct, but it doesn’t offer any benefits, in fact you get slightly more customer service by going via the amazon.com website as you get all the product guarantees, the suppliers customer service and the simplicity and convenience of the Amazon giant.

Here is the link to the Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote on Amazon, I am sure that you will be pleased with this product and I hope that you will bookmark my site and check back for more product reviews, tips and stories.

 

Rust-Oleum Flat Boat Antifouling Paint

Rust-Oleum  Antifouling Paint, 1-Quart, Black

bottom paint – click on the image below for more information.

• For use in mild to moderate fouling conditions
• Suitable for both fresh and saltwater
• Best for boats that are regularly hauled and cleaned
• Use on fiberglass boats and all non-aluminum trailer boats
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

bottom paint

A protective copper based coating for use below the waterline on the boat bottom. Hard antifouling coating slowly releases copper, preventing the build up of barnacles, algae, and other marine growth. Use for mild to moderate fouling conditions in both fr

Rust-Oleum 207012 Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint, 1-Quart, Black

Click on the button for more bottom paint information and reviews.

Boat Bottom Painting

 

Boat Bottom Painting Tips That Save Money and Effort
Boat paint

1 Bottom painting is a messy job, but it is so expensive to have a professional do the job that it becomes pretty hard not to do it yourself. An added bonus is that you have some idea that the job was done right. Preparation is everything. An owner can attend to other things at the same time such as, regressing sea cocks, polishing the prop, and checking the cutlass bearing.

2 Painting a boat bottom can go fast; it’s the prep and repair that take the time. I would plan three work-hours for every 15 feet of boat prep and one work-hour for every 15 feet of painting.

3 Antifouling boat bottoms can save you up to 10% of energy required to move your boat through the water and that can be real money. Copper has been used since the 1700s as a great tool to avoid growths on your boat bottom. And a smooth Teflon-type bottom has a drag coefficient smoother than ice.

4 While some owners like contrasting the previous year’s coating color, I prefer using the same color every time. Then if you have a miss or need to sand an error, the bottom remains looking good.

5 Painting boat bottoms is like painting ceilings. But because boats are outside, often rain or dew can roll down the side onto your wet coating. To avoid water running down the side of the boat onto the bottom, you can put a crease in 2-inch masking tape the long way and stick half to the boat with the lip sticking out. Most of your water should then roll off the tape to the ground rather than flowing around the curve of the boat.

6 Don’t forget that dust can cause major health problems. The asbestos legacy suggests that anywhere there is dust from sanding you should wear a mask or a real respirator. A particulate filter and an organic vapor filter combination works best.

7 For sanding, a random-orbit sander works really well for prep. But a good job can also be done with sanding sponges and iron shaped vibrating sanders. The point of the iron can get at those areas by the keel, rudder, and bottom fittings.

8 It’s best to get the jack screw pads rested just before you launch the boat to avoid risking having your boat slip on its jacks.

9 There is now a green masking tape available for your water line, which will help leave a much crisper edge. But it still pays to brush from the tape downward to avoid forcing any coating up under the tape, leaving a ragged edge. Then pull the tape off before the coating dries. You don’t want to glue the tape on, requiring scraping to remove it later.

10 Bottom painting is not so hard on your back if you can get an angle on it. Select a handle that fits the angle to the center, then change to a length that fits the mid-sections and then one for the curve up. This usually means long handles moving toward shorter handles.

11 Have some fairing compound handy; there will inevitably be a few gouges, and it’s easy to fill them right away. A quick-dry epoxy works well especially when drying is accelerated with a hair dryer.

12 Your boat bottom coating may be a two-part mixture or may have copper or other additives that don’t hold in suspension well. Use 200 strokes in order to mix thoroughly before applying the finish. Sanding well will assure that you get the best adhesion and most uniform application of the solids that will remain on the bottom of the boat.

13 Brush the tight areas first so that the roller can smooth any drips that result.

14 A short stool or adjustable stool that can be lowered and raised to fit the angle you want can make your back a lot happier when coating your boat bottom.

15 Most roller frames are threaded and having a few handles cut to different lengths can help. You can also get telescoping handles. Not only can you coat more quickly, but you can also avoid being dripped on.

16 A pail with a roller screen in it can work better than a roller tray. Moving the pail is safe and quick because they are deep so sloshing won’t affect them. Also, long handles mean you can often set the pail on the ground to dip saving a lot of time and effort.

17 I like to apply the roller just one direction, bottom to top, and overlap just a little. This will help avoid pulling any wet coat off and also limits air bubbles that two-way motions can put into some coatings.

18 Using an airless sprayer can do a great job but then you have particles in the air so be careful of your neighbors’ boats and equipment. And don’t forget that you will need to clean that sprayer and lines when you are done.

Inflatable Boats Maintenance: Bottom Paint

Rust-Oleum 207013 Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint, 1-Quart, Blue

antifoulant paint – click on the image below for more information.

• For use in mild to moderate fouling conditions
• Suitable for both fresh and saltwater
• Best for boats that are regularly hauled and cleaned
• Use on fiberglass boats and all non-aluminum trailer boats
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

antifoulant paint

A protective copper based coating for use below the waterline on the boat bottom. Hard antifouling coating slowly releases copper, preventing the build up of barnacles, algae, and other marine growth. Use for mild to moderate fouling conditions in both fr

Rust-Oleum 207013 Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint, 1-Quart, Blue

Click on the button for more antifoulant paint information and reviews.

How To Paint The Bottom Of A Boat

Inflatable Boats Maintenance: Bottom Paint
how to paint the bottom of a boat

Leaving your inflatable boat in the water for more than a few days is a sure indication that marine growth will prosper at the bottom fabric.  Regular bottom paints will not do so well because they will not adhere well to the fabric. Thick paints are just “too thick” to allow for easy storage without cracking the paint.  Thinning the paint is out of the question as though the boat will deflate and store well, it will not be free from marine growth.  There are paints that leech an active ingredient like cuprous oxide in the water but they are ineffective when dry. They are also quite messy to handle.

There are plenty of paint manufacturers who have come out with bottom paints for inflatable boats. The application is two step and starts with the application of a primer coat then followed with superior quality cuprous-oxide bottom paint.

The primer is called Hy-Grip and should be applied after the bottom has been thoroughly clean. First, wash the bottom with soap and water to strip the marine growth after which scrub the bottom with solvent on Hypalon boats and MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) on PVC boats.  It is best that no trace of oxidation is evident on the bottom of the boat.  To check, soak a clean rag in the solvent. Wipe the bottom of the boat with the clean rag. If no color shows up, then the boat’s bottom is clean.

For new boats, you should remove all the surface plasticizers from the bottom fabric.  Most plasticizers can be wiped off with a rag soaked in solvent. Some inflatable boats are tougher that you might have to use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub off the plasticizer.  The Interlux #202 is very effective in removing silicones. You might want to consider using this to remove plasticizers, oxidized materials and silicone o the fabric’s surface for ease in applying the primer.

Once you are 100% sure that the boat’s bottom is clean, apply the Hy-Grip with a clean brush. The Hy-Grip is the material that will bond the paint with the boat’s bottom.  Any bottom paint will do but highly recommended is the Shipbottom Premium Performance antifouling paint.  Look for a bottom paint that is hard-drying and flexible with high cuprous oxide content (about 62.5%). This type of bottom paint will last for  seasons. The boat can also be easily stored without fear of flaking or cracking paints.

Make sure the paint line of the boat’s bottom is above the waterline on a fully loaded boat. Mark the line to make sure. The bottom paint should be good for two seasons at least. The primer should last longer unless you don’t take care of the boat.

RIBS should also be painted in the same process as that with any conventional fiberglass or aluminum boats  but with the addition of painting the fiberglass or aluminum bottom with the appropriate primer. Note that the side and stern tubes are in the water when the RIB is docked.

For more information about Inflatable Boats Maintenance: Bottom Paint, please visit:

http://inflatable-boats-kayaks-and-canoes.com/inflatable-boats-maintenance-bottom-paint/default.php

Choosing Antifouling Paint for Your Boat

Rust-Oleum 207002 Marine Topside Paint, Navy Blue, 1-Quart

marine paint – click on the image below for more information.

• UV resistant
• Excellent gloss retention
• Resists abrasions
• Formulated for brush and spray application
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

marine paint

A high performance modified alkyd base coating for use above the waterline. Provides excellent gloss retention, UV resistance, flexibility and durability in extreme weather conditions. Coverage will vary with condition of surface and method of application

Rust-Oleum 207002 Marine Topside Paint, Navy Blue, 1-Quart

Click on the button for more marine paint information and reviews.

Choosing Antifoulant Paint for Your Boat

Antifoulant Paints – How They Work

Antifouling paint keeps marine growth such as barnacles, mussels and sometimes oysters, and plant growth from attaching to your motor yacht.  Most antifouling paints use the distribution of metallic elements within the paint to stop these foul critters from bonding. Copper (cuprous oxide) and tributyl tin are two metals that have proven to be successful as biocides, but tin, prohibited worldwide on ship hulls in 2009, was so poisonous that it eradicated entire marine ecosystems.

Copper compounds are now universally acknowledged, but the price of the copper raw material has risen considerably.  In addition, high copper concentrations have dissolved in the water system in some sites in the USA placing limitations on the application of copper-based paints.

Paint manufacturers continue to produce a number of new antifouling technologies that tackle these and other difficulties.

New Paint Products

Composite Copper: Substitutes the traditional cuprous oxide with silica, lowering the copper content by up to 40%. The outcome is a copper based biocide that gives superior protection for your yacht, with a base that is made from resources found in the ocean.

Water-Based ablatives: Water replaces the solvents found in standard bottom paints.  Low-odor formula permits painting inside.  Application is trouble free and clean up requires only soap and water.

White copper: Clean and white in color, white copper (cuprous thiocyanate) necessitates 50% less content than the dark copper used in conventional antifouling paint.

Econea:  Paint producers believe that, a metal-free biocide developed by the pharmaceutical industry, is the future of antifouling paint.  Advantages include protection at low usage levels, they degrade rapidly and are biodegradable.  Unlike some metal-based antifouling agents, ECONEA can be used to easily produce lighter and brighter paints, resulting in bright colors with better uniformity.  Because it is a metal-free compound, ECONEA will not cause galvanic corrosion on aluminum hulls. This eliminates the difficulty and cost of thick barrier coats. ECONEA-based paints also add less weight to a trawler when applied at the same film thickness as metal-containing paints.

Antifouling Paint Selections

Copolymer paints are typically used on slow watercraft such as trawlers and sailboats and release biocide at a steady controlled rate all through their lives, wearing away or “ablating” much like a bar of soap. Paint wears off quicker in high drag areas on the hull and appendages. These paints work well in high-growth areas and continue to be effective after haul-out and relaunch. Copolymer paints offer true multi-season protection, lasting as long as there is an acceptable coating thickness. Because they expose new biocide until the coating is worn completely away, extra coats add to their length of service. We advocate a covering of 2 coats on each new bottom job. Copolymer paints with anti-slime additives are best for nutrient-rich, heavy fouling regions.

Modified epoxy paints are better if you have a fast planning – hull boat. Contact leaching paint releases the biocide at a steadily diminishing rate, leaving the hard coating of the original thickness at season’s end. Higher copper content, rather than the type of paint binder as with ablative paints, more often than not means greater effective performance in this paint type. Modified epoxy paints stick to most surfaces, and can be applied over most types of paints. On the down side, they lose effectiveness when the yacht is stored out of water.  In addition, after several coats of paint, the existing paint will start to build up requiring removal.

Dual Biocides

Paint suppliers often add a second biocide to some versions of their applications, usually in the final coat, using formulas such as Biolux, Irgarol and zinc pyrithione and zinc omidine. These additives further restrict the growth of algae.

Aluminum Hulls and Underwater Metals
Aluminum hulls, outdrives and props need paints such as Vivid, Trilux 33, Trilux Prop and Drive Paint and Alumaspray that do not contain cuprous oxide, which responds in a hostile way with the aluminum. Copper-based paints are safe for use on properly primed stainless and bronze.

Zinc anodes must be left unpainted to retain their effectiveness.

Conclusion

Good preparation and priming are the basis for any paint job and antifouling paints are no different. Solid prep determines good adhesion and better performance over time. Remember that most bottom paint changes color when exposed to air or water, so do not judge the color of your bottom paint on dry land. It will show its true color after a couple weeks of immersion in the water.

Don’t be too alarmed by a greenish tint of bottom paint near the waterline due to the paint’s chemical reaction with oxygen. It does not affect the effectivity of the paint.