Aluminum Boats Can Save you Money in the Long Run

Aluminum Boatbuilding

aluminium boats – click on the image below for more information.

aluminium boats

An authoritative guide to designing and building aluminum alloy boats.

Aluminum Boatbuilding

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Paint For Aluminum Boat

Aluminum Boats Can Save you Money in the Long Run
paint for aluminum boat

In the past few years, more and more recreational boat owners have come to discover the joys and savings of owning aluminum boats. Commercial boat owners have been aware of these benefits for many years and, because of their outstanding qualities, aluminum boats make more sense for the private boat owner.To begin with, they are easy to build, last longer, and have good resale value. It is easy to construct down to approximately 22 feet, is very strong, and almost maintenance-free. The aluminum hull is lighter than steel by approximately 45%, which makes it very easy to trailer.

If you were to compare aluminum boats with either fiberglass or steel, you would find that they are superior in strength, weight, durability, maintenance, depreciation, and design flexibility. Depth finders are easily installed by simply drilling and tapping into the hull. Corrosion and electrolysis are no longer a major concern because of today’s marine grade aluminum.

Aluminum boats can be as attractive as any other in the marina with the proper application of your primer and undercoating, finished with a corrosion resistant topcoat. Epoxy paints are considered the best protection wherever things are mounted to the aluminum surface, and for anything below the water line. For those who choose to leave their boats in the water year-round, an additional anti-fouling paint, such as, “No-Foul,” would help eliminate any marine growth problems.

Noise levels and insulation in today’s aluminum boats are comparable to vessels made of other materials, allowing normal conversation and listening to radios or personal stereos possible, even at cruising speed. By making sure that initial construction and the right protective coatings have been applied where needed, recreational boaters know they will have a family boat that will be with them forever.

Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance: 1,001 Time-Saving Tips

Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance: 1,001 Time-Saving Tips

boat maintenance – click on the image below for more information.

• ISBN13: 9780071343251
• Condition: New
• Notes: BRAND NEW FROM PUBLISHER! BUY WITH CONFIDENCE, Over one million books sold! 98% Positive feedback. Compare our books, prices and service to the competition. 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed

boat maintenance

A treasure chest of proven labor-savers that can help you get those pesky maintenance chores done faster–so you can get out on the water and play. Here are 1,001 tested tips from Boating Magazine’s maintenance expert, giving super-effective yet environmentally friendly ways to clean and maintain all your boat’s systems: deck, hull, cabin, engine, bilge, electrical systems, tanks, and gear. Stop working on your boat and go boating!Boat owners, let us remind you of this simple fact: it’s better to be out on the water than working on your boat at the dock. Sandy Lindsey has compiled 1,001 tips to help you keep your boat running–and looking–its best in Boating Magazine’s Quick & Easy Boat Maintenance. From deck to hull, from paint to the electrical systems, and from winterizing to preparing for opening day, Lindsey offers up advice to help you maintain your boat in less time and with less expense. Many of these tips are also happily environmentally friendly–for example, replacing expensive boat cleaners with cheaper and less caustic substitutes. With its concise text and clear layout, this guide will become a welcome addition to your boating library. –M. Stein

Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance: 1,001 Time-Saving Tips

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Marine Touch Up Paint

Repainting and Refinishing a Superyacht – Paint Shed Versus Shrinkwrap Tent
marine touch up paint

At Oceania Marine over half of our business is painting. We run a specialist marine coatings team from the shipyard that cover construction and refit of Superyachts. As a consequence we see it all-  from basic prep, fairing and the application of finish coats.

In terms of repainting and refinishing Superyachts we undertake in the water, outside hardstand and undercover paint shed projects. If we had the choice we would always paint undercover in our paint sheds for the following reasons:

It is protected and not exposed to wind, rain and other climatic vagaries
high quality power, compressed air, and lighting services are reticulated to all parts of the vessel
optimum environmental conditions for product application is maintained via climate control equipment
vessel access is efficient boosting productivity
mezzanine floor workshops and project offices also boost productivity
efficient extraction and containment systems radically reduce dust contamination as well as provide healthier working conditions
vessel is secure under full security alarm monitoring
vessel is secure under full fire protection system externally monitored by fire authorities
product application is carried out under approved conditions so as to meet paint supplier company specifications – therefore qualifies for a full international paint guarantee

However it is not a perfect world and we have to undertake projects outside either on the hardstand or afloat berthed alongside. Predominately the reasons for this would be:

the paint sheds are all booked out and the owner wants it done now
the job is relatively small involving localized areas of the vessel
the vessel is to big for the paint sheds
the yacht managers, skipper or owner are convinced this is a cheaper option over a paint shed

Dealing with the last point before moving on, cost is an interesting matter and we are certain that painting in a shed is highly competitive on price for the following reasons:

granted the shed rate will be a little higher than laydays on a slipway and a lot higher than hardstand rates off the slipway (if your vessel is small enough)
granted it is a lot cheaper in terms of facility costs to stay afloat
however any additional cost in being in a paint shed will not be a significant proportion of the overall cost
access costs inside a shed are much lower
tenting and containment costs in a paint shed are significantly lower
reticulation of services to the project as much cheaper in a pant shed
productivity gains inside a paint shed are considerable (means much less hours)
project duration is certain inside a paint shed
re-work is much lower inside a paint shed

Despite the almost overwhelming factors in favour of painting inside we find ourselves with projects outside for the reasons stated. The advent of modern shrinkwrap materials, better mobile heaters/extraction and experience has led to an improvement in productivity and quiality but the following shortcomings have to be acknowledged:

project setup in involved, expensive and time consuming
tent damage due to worker negligence and weather is constant
New Zealand’s climate is wet, humid and stormy for long periods making conditions inside the tent very poor at times
condensation inside the tent is a constant problem often resulting in application of product being postponed until late morning
environmental standards are hard to meet particularly afloat
paint standards are also hard to meet often compromising paint company approvals and guarantees
application failure risks are increased resulting in much more rework

In finishing we have to say that our overwhelming preference is to complete our larger paint projects inside one of our paint sheds rather than outside. But sometimes that is not a feasible option and having said that it is our contention that cost should not be used as the prime motivation for not doing so.

If you want to use our wide-ranging experience in all situations please feel free to get in touch

How to Apply Fiberglass

3M 422 Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit – Quart

repair fiberglass – click on the image below for more information.

• High strength
• Can be used alone or with fiberglass tape, cloth or mat
• Can also be used as a sealer on damaged and rotted wood
• Great on large or small metal rust-outs creates a strong and long lasting bond

repair fiberglass

Bondo Fiberglass Repair Kits have everything needed for the do-it-yourselfer, including easy how-to directions, fiberglass resin, liquid hardener, plastic spreader, fiberglass cloth, mixing stick and mixing tray.

3M 422 Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit – Quart

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How To Apply Fiberglass

 

Since its invention in late 1930s, fiberglass has been used in many electrical, industrial, recreational, and home equipment. A big number of boats manufactured today are created from fiberglass. Even bathtubs, RVs and umbrella sticks are also created from fiberglass. Why? Because fiberglass is weightless, pliable, and flexible. It is also extremely affordable but very tough and extremely resistant to acids, extreme temperature and UV rays.

However, like metal and steel, fiberglass is also subject to oxidation even though it’s made from woven glass fibers. The only difference is that, when fiberglass oxidizes, its surface coat does not create unsightly red-brown rust. Instead, its surface becomes dull and its color fades. Its gel coat layer develops microscopic pits, holes and gaps that give its lackluster look.

In order to totally remove fiberglass oxidation and to eliminate its unsightly effects, it is really a must to treat first these ultra tiny crevices before applying any wax goods. Generally, you are able to discover commercial fiberglass restoration systems in most hardware stores and marine shops. Some products include polish, sealant and wax. You will find also other products that don’t include wax in their fiberglass restoration system.

Regardless, the process of cleaning remains the same. And here are the easy steps on how you can remove fiberglass oxidation.

1. Choose a fiberglass restoration system that best suits your needs in getting rid of fiberglass oxidation.
2. Utilizing a cloth, textured and gritty nylon scrubber or a mechanical buffer, apply the fiberglass polishing aid towards the surface from the fiberglass material (i.e. your boat or bathtub’s affected exterior)!!!
3. In a circular but overlapping movement, polish the outer layer from the fiberglass (i.e. the gel coat layer).

In case the item you chose to use is a one-step product, let it dry completely for a couple of minutes after rubbing. Utilizing a clean dry cloth or mechanical buffer, buff the layer to give it a shiny finish.

1. Wash off the residues from the fiberglass material using a mild detergent soap or washing solution included in the fiberglass restoration kit. Then let it stand to dry.
2. Inspect the polished region. If you are satisfied that it is totally clear and dry, your next step is to apply the fiberglass sealant or sealer using a clean and soft fabric. There’s no require to rub the solution towards the affected layer.
3. If you’ve wax in your kit, apply it lastly as a final coating. Use a clear cloth to rub the area. Keep in mind: rub in circular but overlapping motion.
4. Let it dry for another few minutes. Then buff it using a clear fabric or a mechanical buffer. This will give your fiberglass materials a smooth, shiny and bright finish that will look almost like brand new!

Gel Coat Repairs

3m Auto Products 05095 3m Acryl-White Putty

marine body filler – click on the image below for more information.

• Recommended for filling pinholes, scratches and other surface defects
• Its white color minimizes the possibility of color showing through the final coat
• Other advantages include easy sanding, fast drying, spreads easily, and has low shrinkage.

marine body filler

3m Auto Products 05095 3m Acryl-White Putty

3m Auto Products 05095 3m Acryl-White Putty

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How To Use Gel Coat

Simple, Do it yourself Gel Coat Repairs
how to use gel coat

Got a scrape, crack, or soft deck on your power boat or sailboat? Here’s a quick, easy fix that will save you money. There are many different ways to go about the repair, but my method works and is not too difficult to master.

Let’s get started fixing that crack.

Did your jib pole come loose? Did the anchor swing too wildly or did your landlubber friend forget to tell you he had on his golf shoes? Don’t laugh…it happens. I used to get all upset when I saw the slightest damage to my gel coat and thought it would never be the same. You will always see it even after a mint fix. But no one else will, even if the fix is not perfect. Power boats get cracks here and there from the pounding as they cut through waves. Sailboats get it the same way, plus all the heeling over they do.

I have read all the books and articles and found they all do a great repair. Some more complicated than others. I took the best from each and now do this procedure for a great fix.

What you’ll need:

1. Get a Bondo can (auto/marine body filler), that is short and wide, with a plastic top. This comes with the catalyst you will need.

2. Sandpaper/wet & dry (emery cloth), 1 sheet of each: #220, #320, #400, #600

3. Gel Coat color from the manufacturer – it’s worth the wait to get it. If not, you can      use white gel coat with the tints you need to get it right. Most stores have a chart.

You can mix the gel coat over the winter. Get the right color card from Home Depot, and you can play with the color over the winter, until you get a match, and save it in a jar for the spring.

4. Acetone

5. Masking Tape

6. Spray bottle, sold in marine supply or hardware stores.

7. Screwdriver or metal pick

8. Newspaper

As you can see from the materials list, there need not be a great expense in performing your own repair. These materials can last through 10 repairs. Each time you take care of the crack yourself, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars.

1.         In order to repair a crack, clear the area. Take a good look at it and then take some acetone on a rag and clean in and around the crack. A little goes a long way. Too much is no good. This cleans the wax, dirt, and stains off so you now can see clearly how far the crack really goes and what color you should mix, too. The factory gel coat that was sent is the original color of the boat’s gel coat. By sanding lightly with 300 grit wet you will bring this color out, but it will not match the rest of the boat. You may have to add a touch of yellow or gray/black to get that faded color. Look from the sun. If you plan to compound to the original color, then go with the factory color, otherwise, tint it down.

2.      Now that the gel coat is ready, let’s get back to the crack. After using some acetone and sanding right around and in the crack, use a flat hand screwdriver or metal pick to loosen any material in the crack. Make good, fat edges at either side of the crack. Chip away at it until you get to good, uncracked gel coat. Sand the area, blow out and acetone again.

3.                              Tape around the area you are working on, close to the crack. Then tape newspaper around it to catch any overspray.

4.                  Get the sprayer, read the instructions. Pour the gel coat (factory or mixed) into the jar. Add some acetone to cut the thickness of the gel coat so it can spray out. Add the proper amount of catalyst, stir and screw the jar back on and you’re ready to go.

5.                  If the crack is deep, you need to add some plastic filler (bondo). You can use the type that has fiberglass strands. A white colored filler is preferable. Mix the proper amount of catalyst into the filler and squeeze it into the crack. If the crack is small, use a flathead screwdriver. Keep it just in the crack. Use masking tape along the edges, if you need. You can keep it level with the surrounding gel coat, because when it dries, you will sand it lightly with the 220 or 300 grit and make a slight depression in the plastic. Drying time will vary according to the temperature and amount of catalyst used. Pull the excess masking tape away. Use acetone to wash away the masking tape glue and any impurities.

6.                  Find a piece of cardboard to spray on. Feel the force and the amount that comes out of the sprayer. Press the nozzle to move it to the right. Release nozzle. Press the nozzle again, move to the left and so on to get a smooth coat. Now, spray the repair area with the same motion. See how it looks before you repeat the process. Don’t try to complete it in one or two shots. Slow and easy. It will cover. You can put extra coats on because you will do sanding next. Don’t put too much on. Let it dry. It’s good to do this in 70 – 80 degree weather. If it is cooler out, point a utility light at it. It should harden it in anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, varying according to the outside temperature. If you want, you can leave it overnight. If it still doesn’t set, use the acetone to get it off and try again with a better combo of catalyst. You will get good at this one you do it several times, just like riding a bike.

7.                  After the gel coat hardens, take that plastic cup top and put some water in it. Rip a 1” x  4” piece of emery cloth off the 220 or 300 grit. Soak it a bit and also put some water over the repairs. Wipe it around. Now, with the emery cloth pliable, lightly sand over the repair. Feel the coarseness of the area you are sanding. Add more water if it feels pretty flush with the surrounding area. Move to 400 grit, then to 600 grit. Get it nice and wet. Watch not to take too much gel coat off. Do a little check.

8.                  The final step is using a little white compound. Add a touch of water. Compound out lightly. Wash off thoroughly and wax. You’re done. Is it perfect?  Maybe, but if not, no will see it unless you put blue gel coat where white should belong. In the meantime, you will forget about where it actually is as it fades in. A scrap is basically the same, just a large area. Sometimes a light sanding with 300 or 400 grit, nice and wet, will remove most and sometimes, surprisingly, all of the scrap without a gel coat repair. It just depends how deep it is.

With a little practice, you can save yourself a boat-load of money otherwise spent on having the gel coat refinished professionally. If doing it yourself is not your thing, you may find understanding the process helpful when consulting with a repair center.