I have decided to write about this boat since I was surprised to discover that it was even better than the rave reviews I read about it!

There are many great things about the Intex Excursion 5, let me start with how we use it.  We have two small kids, aged 7 and 4.  They are boys and very active, so we were not too sure how the idea of boats would work, but thought that we would give it a go with this design.  Remember that these kids had no experience of boats tipping up and hence had no concerns about it either – they just assumed that it would be OK.  Hence the boats stability was quite conclusively tested.  Despite repeated reminders that if they didn’t want to fall in they should try and avoid pushing, shoving and leaning over and putting the top of their heads in the water to cool down (only boys!!!!) they managed to achieve all of the above – except for falling in!

We had packed a fair amount on our first trip as we were unsure how long we would be on the water for; and by the time we had packed enough food for us all (and the boys stomachs are like bottomless pits), spare clothes and towels, we had packed a couple of medium sized sports bags.  I was convinced that we would be squashed and it would be a disaster.  I couldn’t have been more wrong.

The plan was to have an adult on each of the seats at the end; the comfy ones with the back rests, and to put the kids in the middle.  The bags were to go between the center and end seat, and who ever was not rowing could rest their feet on them.  The seating arrangement didn’t quite work as planned.  The boys literally bounced enthusiastically from their seats to ours continuously, and had no worries about scrambling over the bags in between.  To our complete amazement the boat was stable despite the ridiculous level of activity.  Then we thought that we would let them have a go a rowing!  We didn’t get too far under their muscle power, and we did have a bit of an interesting course (but what can you expect from a 4 and 7 year old).  However, with their minimal weight and their interesting rowing techniques at one end and our somewhat heavier weight and fits of giggle our end, the boat was still stable.

This has got to be one the best family pastimes we have.  We all come back feeling relaxed, I have absolute faith in the Intex Excursion 5 now and I can’t see how it can possible let anyone down if it can survive our family.

I cannot recommend this boat enough; this is a well made, well designed and sold at a great price!

Intex Excursion 5 Boat Set

Intex Excursion 5 Boat Set – click on the image below for more information.

• 3 air chambers including an auxiliary air chamber in hull for extra buoyancy
• Boston valve on two main hull chambers for quick-fill & fast-deflate
• All around grab line
• Inflatable I-Beam floor for comfort and rigidity
• Has 2 welded oar locks on each side

Intex Excursion 5 Boat Set

Excursion 5 Boat Set for up to 5 people includes boat, pump and oars. Made from SUPER-TOUGH vinyl construction for durability. Inflatable seats and floor for comfort. US Coast Guard approved.Excursion 5 Boat Set for up to 5 people includes boat, pump and oars. Made from SUPER-TOUGH vinyl construction for durability. Inflatable seats and floor for comfort. US Coast Guard approved.

Need a Boat Certificate of Origin? Write down the HIN (Hull Identification Number) and go to www.intexcorp.com. On the first screen that pops up, select your location. Click on the “Need a Boat Certificate of Origin?” option under Consumer Information. Choose your boat model. Enter the required information and print your certificate.

Intex Excursion 5 Boat Set

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Intex Motor Mount Kit

Intex Excursion 5 Boat Set – click on the image below for more information.

• Motor mount kit designed for Intex inflatable boats
• Lets you attach up to 3.5-horsepower motors
• Made of marine plywood with aluminum support arms
• Attaches and detaches quickly; disassembles for storage
• Compatible with most newer model Intex boats

Intex Excursion 5 Boat Set

Motor Mount Kit allows you the option to paddle for sit back and let the motor do the work for you. Attaches easily to Intex Boats and motor attaches easily to mount.Kick back and relax while cruising down the river on an Intex inflatable boat with this motor mount kit. The kit lets you attach up to a 3.5-horsepower motor to the rear of your Intex boat, so you can rest your paddling arms and float in comfort. The mount–which is made of marine plywood with aluminum support arms–attaches and detaches easily, so you don’t have to spend a half hour fussing with the components each time you want to use the motor. Plus, the mount disassembles quickly when you return back home for easy storage in your garage or closet.

The motor mount kit is compatible with the following Intex inflatable boats:

• Challenger 2, 3 & 4
• Seahawk 2, 3 & 4
• Excursion 2, 3, 4 & 5
• Mariner 400
• Seahawk II

Intex Motor Mount Kit

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Intex Excursion 5 is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

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If you are looking for used boat parts, then you will definitely need to spend some time online. The days of ringing round or visiting your local boat yard to find a part for you are long gone. This is one of the areas on which the internet has had a spectacular effect.

There is no doubt that you should definitely buy from a reputable company when buying an part for your boat; and a used part is no different. The companies which strip down boatswill clean check and test these to make sure that they are good for the job they are supposed to do. If you are buying from a load trader then there is the chance that you will not get this level of expertise in checking your part.

So where do you start in your quest for the perfect parts? Firstly you should start with your boat. There are two reasons people tend to go in search of boat parts, firstly, something has broken and it needs repairing, the second reason is that they are doing general maintenance and sprucing it up.

If you are a repairing a broken part then you should definitely check all parts around the broken part. If the part simply became less efficient due to age then you will need to be sure that when the new part is fitted that the attaching old parts are up to the job of working together properly. If the part actually broke, then you will need to check to see if any damage was caused during breakage. A break will often cause a sudden surge of energy through the connecting parts, this can either cause or exacerbate existing weaknesses.

The other thing to consider is whether there are any jobs on your boat which you have been meaning to get to and until now have not found the time. When working on a boat it is a good time to have a general review of it. Also, if you are thinking of outsourcing the work or getting someone in to help you then you want to have a fairly comprehensive list before you begin so that you can budget carefully.

Now that you have your list you want to find a supplier. Firstly, you should decide what the most difficult part to find is and start there. The reason for this is that, whoever can supply this part will probably be able to supply the rest of your requirements, and it is a lot easier to deal with just one contact.

When you are searching for a part online you should be as precise as possible. If you think that you may have found the part but are not one hundred percent convinced then you should email the company with all the details of make, model, year and every defining feature to see if they can confirm that the part choice is correct. A good company should be able to offer advice, and if they are not sure they should offer a refund option. If you do not get any positive feed back then you should move on and try to find another supplier.

Where ever you decide to buy your used boat parts from, it is important to make sure that your transactions are as protected as possible, consider buying with a credit card which will offer and insurance if there is an issue with the delivery of the parts.

Used Boat Parts is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: Used Boat Parts

There are lots of reasons to consider a boat paint job, and most of them are fraught with some complications.

For those of you used to restoring boats will be aware that this is a big task to embark on. If however, you are restoring your first boat then you may not have realised quite what you have let yourself in for.

The actual task of applying the paint is best left to the professional, but here we hope to guide you through the maze of preparation required before you present your boat for painting.

Whatever you do, before applying any sort of boat paint you should allocate a substantial amount of time to preparation. However good a paint job you have, bad preparation will mean that it will not look as good as it could and it certainly will not last.

The most important thing to understand is the concept of a paint bridge. When you are two sections of the boat meeting there is a join. These joins are the most troubles spots you will have to deal with.

Where possible you should the parts due to be painted, and then reconstruct the item after the final coat. If you cannot do this then it is of the utmost importance that you remove and clean the area perfectly. The chances are then when the boat was built the parts were prepared separately. This means that the old paint will be inside the join. If you apply new paint onto this you risk the new paint bubbling where it doesn’t adhere properly to any old paint. So make sure that you get in there as well and you can and you will minimise the risks of imperfections.

The next thing to consider is screws. The problems here are similar to those of the join. However, here you should be able to remove the screws and make sure that you paint is applied underneath. Remember that the paint will not adhere to same to a screw as to a surrounding surface. There is the risk that your screws will not fit properly after your paint job. However, with care you will manage to put these back. Please do not try to do this when you are already frustrated or tired as the reinsertion of the screws can drive you slightly nuts and requires a huge amount of patience to ensure that you do not in any way damage or crack your new paint job.

Finally, hard to access places. Before you start preparing your boat have a look at it and imagine that you were going to do the paint job and it was for your best friend. Work out the bits which would worry you most and write them down. There are always some awkward areas which need special attention. The chances are that the majority of your paint job will be sprayed in a special paint container. Discuss with the painter how they intent to deal with these difficult places. It is sometimes best to brush paint these. Although brush painting does leave slight marks, it is often better to have some excellent brush painting than to have some bad spray painting.

You are now ready to start the process of dismantling (remembering of course to label and document all parts) before you send your boat for it’s boat paint job.

Boat Paint is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

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interlux antifouling – click on the image below for more information.

interlux antifouling

Available in 5 bright clean colors including White
Ideal for use on aluminum
Excellent for use on fiberglass, wood, and steel
Biolux^® blocks slime
2 biocides working together increase antifouling
Use with thinner 333sold separately

Interlux Yacht Finishes / Nautical Paint YBA062Q TRILUX 33 RED – QUARTS TRILUX 33

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If you own a boat of any sort you will fully understand the importance of looking after it.  Hence, I am not going to explain the importance to your maintenance.  Here, I would like to give you a chance to read a complete review of what I believe to be one of the best products on the market.

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Racing Bronze Y999G Racing Bronze

If you have a racing boat then this is definitely the product for you!  Let me start with some of the major advantages which I found with this product:

1                    It is very effective against barnacles.

2                    It is easy to apply.

3                    It is compatible with other antifouling paints and products.

4                    It is long lasting.

5                    It can be wet sanded to get a smoother surface.

6                    It is really easy to clean and maintain.

Now, you may think that all other products on the market can do this, and yes, to some degree a lot of them can.  But this is a product which does all of these things and does them WELL.  It is also spectacularly long lasting, with a little bit of maintenance you will find that this can last you a good five years – you certainly can’t complain about that!

So now I guess you want the practical information as well….

Here goes:

Application:  Roller, brush or spray (conventional or airless) – which ever your preference they will all produce effect and impressive results.

Type of surface you can use this on: Bare wood or fiberglass OR painted wood or fiberglass.

Preparation:  This is fully detailed in the Interlux instructions and seems pointless to reproduce here.  Yes, preparation is required, but it is highly manageable, and the instructions are very comprehensive and cover all the different surfaces and their current conditions.

Number of coats:  Usually 2, but 3 is essential for bare wood.

There is one word of warning: Do NOT use on aluminium boats!

I have found that this Interlux product is available for a range of prices, but the best prices seem to be on Amazon.  It is actually shipped by an independent, but I have used them and they are great.  You can go direct, but it doesn’t offer any benefits, in fact you get slightly more customer service by going via the amazon.com website as you get all the product guarantees, the suppliers customer service and the simplicity and convenience of the Amazon giant.

Here is the link to the Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote on Amazon, I am sure that you will be pleased with this product and I hope that you will bookmark my site and check back for more product reviews, tips and stories.

Interlux Antifouling Fiberglass Paint is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: Interlux Antifouling Fiberglass Paint

aluminium boats – click on the image below for more information.

aluminium boats

An authoritative guide to designing and building aluminum alloy boats.

Aluminum Boatbuilding

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Paint For Aluminum Boat

Aluminum Boats Can Save you Money in the Long Run
paint for aluminum boat

In the past few years, more and more recreational boat owners have come to discover the joys and savings of owning aluminum boats. Commercial boat owners have been aware of these benefits for many years and, because of their outstanding qualities, aluminum boats make more sense for the private boat owner.To begin with, they are easy to build, last longer, and have good resale value. It is easy to construct down to approximately 22 feet, is very strong, and almost maintenance-free. The aluminum hull is lighter than steel by approximately 45%, which makes it very easy to trailer.

If you were to compare aluminum boats with either fiberglass or steel, you would find that they are superior in strength, weight, durability, maintenance, depreciation, and design flexibility. Depth finders are easily installed by simply drilling and tapping into the hull. Corrosion and electrolysis are no longer a major concern because of today’s marine grade aluminum.

Aluminum boats can be as attractive as any other in the marina with the proper application of your primer and undercoating, finished with a corrosion resistant topcoat. Epoxy paints are considered the best protection wherever things are mounted to the aluminum surface, and for anything below the water line. For those who choose to leave their boats in the water year-round, an additional anti-fouling paint, such as, “No-Foul,” would help eliminate any marine growth problems.

Noise levels and insulation in today’s aluminum boats are comparable to vessels made of other materials, allowing normal conversation and listening to radios or personal stereos possible, even at cruising speed. By making sure that initial construction and the right protective coatings have been applied where needed, recreational boaters know they will have a family boat that will be with them forever.

Aluminum Boats Can Save you Money in the Long Run is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: Aluminum Boats Can Save you Money in the Long Run

boat maintenance – click on the image below for more information.

• ISBN13: 9780071343251
• Condition: New
• Notes: BRAND NEW FROM PUBLISHER! BUY WITH CONFIDENCE, Over one million books sold! 98% Positive feedback. Compare our books, prices and service to the competition. 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed

boat maintenance

A treasure chest of proven labor-savers that can help you get those pesky maintenance chores done faster–so you can get out on the water and play. Here are 1,001 tested tips from Boating Magazine’s maintenance expert, giving super-effective yet environmentally friendly ways to clean and maintain all your boat’s systems: deck, hull, cabin, engine, bilge, electrical systems, tanks, and gear. Stop working on your boat and go boating!Boat owners, let us remind you of this simple fact: it’s better to be out on the water than working on your boat at the dock. Sandy Lindsey has compiled 1,001 tips to help you keep your boat running–and looking–its best in Boating Magazine’s Quick & Easy Boat Maintenance. From deck to hull, from paint to the electrical systems, and from winterizing to preparing for opening day, Lindsey offers up advice to help you maintain your boat in less time and with less expense. Many of these tips are also happily environmentally friendly–for example, replacing expensive boat cleaners with cheaper and less caustic substitutes. With its concise text and clear layout, this guide will become a welcome addition to your boating library. –M. Stein

Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance: 1,001 Time-Saving Tips

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Marine Touch Up Paint

Repainting and Refinishing a Superyacht – Paint Shed Versus Shrinkwrap Tent
marine touch up paint

At Oceania Marine over half of our business is painting. We run a specialist marine coatings team from the shipyard that cover construction and refit of Superyachts. As a consequence we see it all-  from basic prep, fairing and the application of finish coats.

In terms of repainting and refinishing Superyachts we undertake in the water, outside hardstand and undercover paint shed projects. If we had the choice we would always paint undercover in our paint sheds for the following reasons:

It is protected and not exposed to wind, rain and other climatic vagaries
high quality power, compressed air, and lighting services are reticulated to all parts of the vessel
optimum environmental conditions for product application is maintained via climate control equipment
vessel access is efficient boosting productivity
mezzanine floor workshops and project offices also boost productivity
efficient extraction and containment systems radically reduce dust contamination as well as provide healthier working conditions
vessel is secure under full security alarm monitoring
vessel is secure under full fire protection system externally monitored by fire authorities
product application is carried out under approved conditions so as to meet paint supplier company specifications – therefore qualifies for a full international paint guarantee

However it is not a perfect world and we have to undertake projects outside either on the hardstand or afloat berthed alongside. Predominately the reasons for this would be:

the paint sheds are all booked out and the owner wants it done now
the job is relatively small involving localized areas of the vessel
the vessel is to big for the paint sheds
the yacht managers, skipper or owner are convinced this is a cheaper option over a paint shed

Dealing with the last point before moving on, cost is an interesting matter and we are certain that painting in a shed is highly competitive on price for the following reasons:

granted the shed rate will be a little higher than laydays on a slipway and a lot higher than hardstand rates off the slipway (if your vessel is small enough)
granted it is a lot cheaper in terms of facility costs to stay afloat
however any additional cost in being in a paint shed will not be a significant proportion of the overall cost
access costs inside a shed are much lower
tenting and containment costs in a paint shed are significantly lower
reticulation of services to the project as much cheaper in a pant shed
productivity gains inside a paint shed are considerable (means much less hours)
project duration is certain inside a paint shed
re-work is much lower inside a paint shed

Despite the almost overwhelming factors in favour of painting inside we find ourselves with projects outside for the reasons stated. The advent of modern shrinkwrap materials, better mobile heaters/extraction and experience has led to an improvement in productivity and quiality but the following shortcomings have to be acknowledged:

project setup in involved, expensive and time consuming
tent damage due to worker negligence and weather is constant
New Zealand’s climate is wet, humid and stormy for long periods making conditions inside the tent very poor at times
condensation inside the tent is a constant problem often resulting in application of product being postponed until late morning
environmental standards are hard to meet particularly afloat
paint standards are also hard to meet often compromising paint company approvals and guarantees
application failure risks are increased resulting in much more rework

In finishing we have to say that our overwhelming preference is to complete our larger paint projects inside one of our paint sheds rather than outside. But sometimes that is not a feasible option and having said that it is our contention that cost should not be used as the prime motivation for not doing so.

If you want to use our wide-ranging experience in all situations please feel free to get in touch

Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance: 1,001 Time-Saving Tips is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

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bottom paint – click on the image below for more information.

• For use in mild to moderate fouling conditions
• Suitable for both fresh and saltwater
• Best for boats that are regularly hauled and cleaned
• Use on fiberglass boats and all non-aluminum trailer boats
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

bottom paint

A protective copper based coating for use below the waterline on the boat bottom. Hard antifouling coating slowly releases copper, preventing the build up of barnacles, algae, and other marine growth. Use for mild to moderate fouling conditions in both fr

Rust-Oleum 207012 Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint, 1-Quart, Black

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Boat Bottom Painting

Boat Bottom Painting Tips That Save Money and Effort
Boat paint

1 Bottom painting is a messy job, but it is so expensive to have a professional do the job that it becomes pretty hard not to do it yourself. An added bonus is that you have some idea that the job was done right. Preparation is everything. An owner can attend to other things at the same time such as, regressing sea cocks, polishing the prop, and checking the cutlass bearing.

2 Painting a boat bottom can go fast; it’s the prep and repair that take the time. I would plan three work-hours for every 15 feet of boat prep and one work-hour for every 15 feet of painting.

3 Antifouling boat bottoms can save you up to 10% of energy required to move your boat through the water and that can be real money. Copper has been used since the 1700s as a great tool to avoid growths on your boat bottom. And a smooth Teflon-type bottom has a drag coefficient smoother than ice.

4 While some owners like contrasting the previous year’s coating color, I prefer using the same color every time. Then if you have a miss or need to sand an error, the bottom remains looking good.

5 Painting boat bottoms is like painting ceilings. But because boats are outside, often rain or dew can roll down the side onto your wet coating. To avoid water running down the side of the boat onto the bottom, you can put a crease in 2-inch masking tape the long way and stick half to the boat with the lip sticking out. Most of your water should then roll off the tape to the ground rather than flowing around the curve of the boat.

6 Don’t forget that dust can cause major health problems. The asbestos legacy suggests that anywhere there is dust from sanding you should wear a mask or a real respirator. A particulate filter and an organic vapor filter combination works best.

7 For sanding, a random-orbit sander works really well for prep. But a good job can also be done with sanding sponges and iron shaped vibrating sanders. The point of the iron can get at those areas by the keel, rudder, and bottom fittings.

8 It’s best to get the jack screw pads rested just before you launch the boat to avoid risking having your boat slip on its jacks.

9 There is now a green masking tape available for your water line, which will help leave a much crisper edge. But it still pays to brush from the tape downward to avoid forcing any coating up under the tape, leaving a ragged edge. Then pull the tape off before the coating dries. You don’t want to glue the tape on, requiring scraping to remove it later.

10 Bottom painting is not so hard on your back if you can get an angle on it. Select a handle that fits the angle to the center, then change to a length that fits the mid-sections and then one for the curve up. This usually means long handles moving toward shorter handles.

11 Have some fairing compound handy; there will inevitably be a few gouges, and it’s easy to fill them right away. A quick-dry epoxy works well especially when drying is accelerated with a hair dryer.

12 Your boat bottom coating may be a two-part mixture or may have copper or other additives that don’t hold in suspension well. Use 200 strokes in order to mix thoroughly before applying the finish. Sanding well will assure that you get the best adhesion and most uniform application of the solids that will remain on the bottom of the boat.

13 Brush the tight areas first so that the roller can smooth any drips that result.

14 A short stool or adjustable stool that can be lowered and raised to fit the angle you want can make your back a lot happier when coating your boat bottom.

15 Most roller frames are threaded and having a few handles cut to different lengths can help. You can also get telescoping handles. Not only can you coat more quickly, but you can also avoid being dripped on.

16 A pail with a roller screen in it can work better than a roller tray. Moving the pail is safe and quick because they are deep so sloshing won’t affect them. Also, long handles mean you can often set the pail on the ground to dip saving a lot of time and effort.

17 I like to apply the roller just one direction, bottom to top, and overlap just a little. This will help avoid pulling any wet coat off and also limits air bubbles that two-way motions can put into some coatings.

18 Using an airless sprayer can do a great job but then you have particles in the air so be careful of your neighbors’ boats and equipment. And don’t forget that you will need to clean that sprayer and lines when you are done.

Rust-Oleum Flat Boat Antifouling Paint is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: Rust-Oleum Flat Boat Antifouling Paint

boat bottom cleaner – click on the image below for more information.

• Removes scum lines and tough stains
• Ideal for removing rust and leaf stains, too
• Does not contain harmful acids; safe and easy to use
• Works fast; no hard scrubbing required
• Safe for use on fiberglass, metal and painted surfaces

boat bottom cleaner

Instant Hull Cleaner is the fastest and easiest way to remove unsightly waterline marks or stains from fiberglass or painted hulls. It is also ideal for removing rust or leaf stains from decks. It is formulated to be easy to use; just wipe it on and rinse away stains without hard scrubbing.

Star brite Instant Boat Hull Cleaner, 32 oz

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Paint Boat Hull

How to Sail Faster, Use Less Fuel, and Reduce Boat Maintenance

paint boat hull

Growth on the bottom of a boat can reduce its efficiency by as much as 10%. Once fouling has established a hold on a boat hull it will rapidly spread or “colonize” the surface. Prevention is therefore better than the cure of having to remove the fouling by scraping.

Fouling can pose a safety risk. Heavy fouling growth reduces responsiveness of the craft. The added weight of the fouling can make the boat sit lower in the water than intended. This can have obvious implications in heavy weather conditions.

Furthermore, fouling can damage the boat. Prolonged growth of certain types of fouling can damage the substrate of the hull. For example, the natural glues which organisms use to attach to the hull can damage wood and fiberglass. Fouling can also clog water intakes and cause damage to the engines.

Fouling also causes drag. As drag is increased, fuel consumption increases and speed is reduced even to the point where a planing hull may not be able to get on plane. For racing boats, this can be the difference between winning and losing a race.

The best preventive measure is to coat the hull with a specially manufactured boat bottom paint designed to inhibit growth and barnacle attachment, to provide a reduction in friction with the water, and to protect the hull for a long time. The benefits of coating the bottom are less fuel use, faster sailing or motoring, the ability to clean the hull by pressure washing rather than scraping, and less long term maintenance with better resale value.

Antifouling boat bottom coatings are not meant to be cosmetic or decorative. The best boat bottom coatings incorporate the large polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) molecule which produces a drag coefficient smoother than ice. One implementation, fluorourethane was originated by the U.S. Naval Research Laboratories (NRL) in the early 1970s. It was a combination of a fluorocarbon (Teflon™) molecule with a urethane molecule. The material was unique in that it provided a surface with approximately the same coefficient of friction as the Teflon®, was hydrophobic, UV resistant, and at the same time provided an abrasion resistance four times that of Teflon. The fluorourethane was originally tested on several ship hulls for the U.S. Navy. One boat tested was a harbor tugboat in Chesapeake Bay. The coating lasted 11-1/2 years compared to a conventional hull coating which lasted only 18-24 months. Of major interest was the fact that no rust or corrosion occurred under the coating.

The best coatings also employ copper. Copper has been protecting boat bottoms from growth since the 1700s when Britain’s Fast Ships, like the Cutty Sark, raced from the Orient to England with cargoes of fresh tea. While tin and other biocides have been used on boat bottoms over the years, the proven standard still relates to the level of copper used. Yet copper is not the only determining factor of how well an antifouling paint will perform. The resin-binder system, the material that holds the paint together, is equally important. In addition to holding the paint together, the resin-binder system determines how fast the copper and other biocides are released. The resin-binder system should be carefully tailored for the amount and type of copper used to obtain maximum efficiency. The amount of copper affects the life of an antifouling coating but the sophistication of the resin-binder system to hold and release copper is far more important to the effectiveness of the antifouling effect. The best antifouling boat coatings release biocide at a nearly constant rate throughout their lives. If the resin-binder is correct, lesser amounts of the highly efficient copper biocide are needed to deliver the best possible performance.

Antifouling coatings will retain their antifouling properties as long as the coating is on the hull. Sanding between coats will add to the longevity of the bottom jobs. By sanding the bottom you can get more coats to adhere and forestall the day when too many coats means that you must remove all the antifouling coatings from the surface and start over. The boat bottom should always be sanded before an additional coat even if it has just been power washed.

Boat Hull Cleaner is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: Boat Hull Cleaner

repair fiberglass – click on the image below for more information.

• High strength
• Can be used alone or with fiberglass tape, cloth or mat
• Can also be used as a sealer on damaged and rotted wood
• Great on large or small metal rust-outs creates a strong and long lasting bond

repair fiberglass

Bondo Fiberglass Repair Kits have everything needed for the do-it-yourselfer, including easy how-to directions, fiberglass resin, liquid hardener, plastic spreader, fiberglass cloth, mixing stick and mixing tray.

3M 422 Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit – Quart

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How To Apply Fiberglass

Since its invention in late 1930s, fiberglass has been used in many electrical, industrial, recreational, and home equipment. A big number of boats manufactured today are created from fiberglass. Even bathtubs, RVs and umbrella sticks are also created from fiberglass. Why? Because fiberglass is weightless, pliable, and flexible. It is also extremely affordable but very tough and extremely resistant to acids, extreme temperature and UV rays.

However, like metal and steel, fiberglass is also subject to oxidation even though it’s made from woven glass fibers. The only difference is that, when fiberglass oxidizes, its surface coat does not create unsightly red-brown rust. Instead, its surface becomes dull and its color fades. Its gel coat layer develops microscopic pits, holes and gaps that give its lackluster look.

In order to totally remove fiberglass oxidation and to eliminate its unsightly effects, it is really a must to treat first these ultra tiny crevices before applying any wax goods. Generally, you are able to discover commercial fiberglass restoration systems in most hardware stores and marine shops. Some products include polish, sealant and wax. You will find also other products that don’t include wax in their fiberglass restoration system.

Regardless, the process of cleaning remains the same. And here are the easy steps on how you can remove fiberglass oxidation.

1. Choose a fiberglass restoration system that best suits your needs in getting rid of fiberglass oxidation.
2. Utilizing a cloth, textured and gritty nylon scrubber or a mechanical buffer, apply the fiberglass polishing aid towards the surface from the fiberglass material (i.e. your boat or bathtub’s affected exterior)!!!
3. In a circular but overlapping movement, polish the outer layer from the fiberglass (i.e. the gel coat layer).

In case the item you chose to use is a one-step product, let it dry completely for a couple of minutes after rubbing. Utilizing a clean dry cloth or mechanical buffer, buff the layer to give it a shiny finish.

1. Wash off the residues from the fiberglass material using a mild detergent soap or washing solution included in the fiberglass restoration kit. Then let it stand to dry.
2. Inspect the polished region. If you are satisfied that it is totally clear and dry, your next step is to apply the fiberglass sealant or sealer using a clean and soft fabric. There’s no require to rub the solution towards the affected layer.
3. If you’ve wax in your kit, apply it lastly as a final coating. Use a clear cloth to rub the area. Keep in mind: rub in circular but overlapping motion.
4. Let it dry for another few minutes. Then buff it using a clear fabric or a mechanical buffer. This will give your fiberglass materials a smooth, shiny and bright finish that will look almost like brand new!

How to Apply Fiberglass is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: How to Apply Fiberglass

marine body filler – click on the image below for more information.

• Recommended for filling pinholes, scratches and other surface defects
• Its white color minimizes the possibility of color showing through the final coat
• Other advantages include easy sanding, fast drying, spreads easily, and has low shrinkage.

marine body filler

3m Auto Products 05095 3m Acryl-White Putty

3m Auto Products 05095 3m Acryl-White Putty

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How To Use Gel Coat

Simple, Do it yourself Gel Coat Repairs
how to use gel coat

Got a scrape, crack, or soft deck on your power boat or sailboat? Here’s a quick, easy fix that will save you money. There are many different ways to go about the repair, but my method works and is not too difficult to master.

Let’s get started fixing that crack.

Did your jib pole come loose? Did the anchor swing too wildly or did your landlubber friend forget to tell you he had on his golf shoes? Don’t laugh…it happens. I used to get all upset when I saw the slightest damage to my gel coat and thought it would never be the same. You will always see it even after a mint fix. But no one else will, even if the fix is not perfect. Power boats get cracks here and there from the pounding as they cut through waves. Sailboats get it the same way, plus all the heeling over they do.

I have read all the books and articles and found they all do a great repair. Some more complicated than others. I took the best from each and now do this procedure for a great fix.

What you’ll need:

1. Get a Bondo can (auto/marine body filler), that is short and wide, with a plastic top. This comes with the catalyst you will need.

2. Sandpaper/wet & dry (emery cloth), 1 sheet of each: #220, #320, #400, #600

3. Gel Coat color from the manufacturer – it’s worth the wait to get it. If not, you can      use white gel coat with the tints you need to get it right. Most stores have a chart.

You can mix the gel coat over the winter. Get the right color card from Home Depot, and you can play with the color over the winter, until you get a match, and save it in a jar for the spring.

4. Acetone

5. Masking Tape

6. Spray bottle, sold in marine supply or hardware stores.

7. Screwdriver or metal pick

8. Newspaper

As you can see from the materials list, there need not be a great expense in performing your own repair. These materials can last through 10 repairs. Each time you take care of the crack yourself, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars.

1.         In order to repair a crack, clear the area. Take a good look at it and then take some acetone on a rag and clean in and around the crack. A little goes a long way. Too much is no good. This cleans the wax, dirt, and stains off so you now can see clearly how far the crack really goes and what color you should mix, too. The factory gel coat that was sent is the original color of the boat’s gel coat. By sanding lightly with 300 grit wet you will bring this color out, but it will not match the rest of the boat. You may have to add a touch of yellow or gray/black to get that faded color. Look from the sun. If you plan to compound to the original color, then go with the factory color, otherwise, tint it down.

2.      Now that the gel coat is ready, let’s get back to the crack. After using some acetone and sanding right around and in the crack, use a flat hand screwdriver or metal pick to loosen any material in the crack. Make good, fat edges at either side of the crack. Chip away at it until you get to good, uncracked gel coat. Sand the area, blow out and acetone again.

3.                              Tape around the area you are working on, close to the crack. Then tape newspaper around it to catch any overspray.

4.                  Get the sprayer, read the instructions. Pour the gel coat (factory or mixed) into the jar. Add some acetone to cut the thickness of the gel coat so it can spray out. Add the proper amount of catalyst, stir and screw the jar back on and you’re ready to go.

5.                  If the crack is deep, you need to add some plastic filler (bondo). You can use the type that has fiberglass strands. A white colored filler is preferable. Mix the proper amount of catalyst into the filler and squeeze it into the crack. If the crack is small, use a flathead screwdriver. Keep it just in the crack. Use masking tape along the edges, if you need. You can keep it level with the surrounding gel coat, because when it dries, you will sand it lightly with the 220 or 300 grit and make a slight depression in the plastic. Drying time will vary according to the temperature and amount of catalyst used. Pull the excess masking tape away. Use acetone to wash away the masking tape glue and any impurities.

6.                  Find a piece of cardboard to spray on. Feel the force and the amount that comes out of the sprayer. Press the nozzle to move it to the right. Release nozzle. Press the nozzle again, move to the left and so on to get a smooth coat. Now, spray the repair area with the same motion. See how it looks before you repeat the process. Don’t try to complete it in one or two shots. Slow and easy. It will cover. You can put extra coats on because you will do sanding next. Don’t put too much on. Let it dry. It’s good to do this in 70 – 80 degree weather. If it is cooler out, point a utility light at it. It should harden it in anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, varying according to the outside temperature. If you want, you can leave it overnight. If it still doesn’t set, use the acetone to get it off and try again with a better combo of catalyst. You will get good at this one you do it several times, just like riding a bike.

7.                  After the gel coat hardens, take that plastic cup top and put some water in it. Rip a 1” x  4” piece of emery cloth off the 220 or 300 grit. Soak it a bit and also put some water over the repairs. Wipe it around. Now, with the emery cloth pliable, lightly sand over the repair. Feel the coarseness of the area you are sanding. Add more water if it feels pretty flush with the surrounding area. Move to 400 grit, then to 600 grit. Get it nice and wet. Watch not to take too much gel coat off. Do a little check.

8.                  The final step is using a little white compound. Add a touch of water. Compound out lightly. Wash off thoroughly and wax. You’re done. Is it perfect?  Maybe, but if not, no will see it unless you put blue gel coat where white should belong. In the meantime, you will forget about where it actually is as it fades in. A scrap is basically the same, just a large area. Sometimes a light sanding with 300 or 400 grit, nice and wet, will remove most and sometimes, surprisingly, all of the scrap without a gel coat repair. It just depends how deep it is.

With a little practice, you can save yourself a boat-load of money otherwise spent on having the gel coat refinished professionally. If doing it yourself is not your thing, you may find understanding the process helpful when consulting with a repair center.

Gel Coat Repairs is a post from: Fiberglass Boat Paint

The Original Post is Located Here: Gel Coat Repairs